One of the first activities when doing a manicure is to identify the natural shape of your client’s nail. The rule is: the shape of the nail should conform to the finger tips for a more natural effect. Of the four shapes, the oval -shaped nail, rounded at the base and slightly pointed at the top, is suitable for most hands. Some clients’ nails could be naturally squared-shape. This shape is very popular with a younger clientele and suited for a French manicure. However, unless kept short, this shape is not advisable for clients who work with their hands as it is prone to breakage and injury.
The following steps need to be followed for a plan manicure:
- Step 1:
Prepare the manicure table and seat your client comfortably.
- Step 2:
Wash your hands and sanitise the client’s hands.
- Step 3:
Examine the client’s hands to determine:
- Condition of hands and nails
- Contraindications
- The natural shape of the fingertips and nails.
- Step 4:
Remove the nail varnish beginning with the little finger on the left hand as follows:
- Wrap cotton pads between the second, middle and index fingers
- Moisten cotton pad with nail varnish remover
- Hold each finger individually and firmly press the moistened cotton wool unto the nail plate
- Remove nail varnish from the base of the nail to the tip by firmly pulling the cotton pad off the nail; this will avoid smearing old polish into the cuticle.
- Step 5:
Shape the nails as follows:
- Agree with the client the desired shape.
- Select the file with appropriate grit.
- Begin with the little finger on the left hand and move towards the thumb
- Hold the client’s finger between your thumb and your first two fingers of your left hand
- Hold the file in your right hand; tilt the file slightly so that filing is mainly on the underside of the free edge between 30 to 45 degrees.
- File from outside to centre; going from right to left and left to right; use two short strokes and one long stroke on either side of the nail; gently taper the sides to remove a sharp edge.
- Only file nails that are 0.3cm long and longer.
- Step 6:
Lightly buff the nail.
- Step 7:
Soften the cuticle by applying a cuticle cream on each nail in the left hand. When you finish applying the cream, immerse the hand in a warm solution of water with hygienic soap.
- Step 8:
Soak the left hand as you apply steps 5 to 8 on the right hand.
- Step 9:
Remove the left hand from the water. Loosen the cuticle and dry the hand.
- Apply cuticle remover. Begin loosening the cuticle using rotary movements with an orange wood stick wrapped in cotton wool.
- Use the spoon end of the cuticle pusher or the orange wood stick to push back cuticles.
- Keep the cuticles moist while doing this step.
- Step 10:
Remove the excess cuticle:
- Gently remove dead cuticles with the cuticle nipper using small rotary movements.
- Use cuticle nipper to trim excess cuticle, uneven cuticle, or hangnails. Remove cuticles as a single segment.
- Apply cuticle conditioner.
- Step 11:
Apply cuticle cream to the right hand and immerse it into the finger bowl. Continue with the manicure treatment of the left hand.
- Step 12:
Clean under the free edge using a cotton‐tipped orange wood stick moistened with soapy water. The movement is from the centre toward the side.
- Step 13:
Remove the right hand from the finger bowl and repeat steps 9 to 13.
- Step 14:
Brush the nails: immerse both hands in water and use the nail brush to remove loose cuticle.
- Step 15:
Remove the hands from the water and dry them with a towel.
- Step 16:
Bevel the nails and use the fine side of the file to give the nails a smooth bevelled edge.
- Step 17:
Apply base coat to each nail.
- Step 18:
Apply nail varnish (client choice of colour), 2 coats a third coat may be needed if the client has dark nails or the second coat is patchy.
- Step 19:
Apply a top coat to each nail.
